Pea Soup Lake, Washington (Aug 15, 2008)
Oct 28, 2014 16:04:10 GMT -5
Post by GaliWalker on Oct 28, 2014 16:04:10 GMT -5
This is just for fun. It's an old trip report from when I lived in Seattle, about a mostly off-trail hike to one of the most beautiful lakes I've ever seen.
Pea Soup Lake
Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington (Aug 15, 2008)
I'd waited a long time for this one. Ever since I'd seen the first photos of Pea Soup Lake I just knew I had to see it for myself. Unfortunately, it wasn’t that easy to get there: no trail led to it and most routes involved glacier travel, which I was not ready to tackle solo. So, all winter long I researched alternate routes, pouring over contour maps and satellite imagery, finally coming up with one I was happy with.
Last week I made my first attempt. 3hrs of futile brush-bashing in extremely wet conditions left me dispirited, but I did end up scoping out the correct route. The forecast for this week's attempt was sunny and hot - thank God, I wouldn’t have to deal with wet brush again - so everything was set.
An early start had me hiking from the Deception Pass trailhead by 4:50am. 2hrs later I reached Deception Pass and then headed south on the Pacific Crest Trail. Eventually, I reached the jump-off spot: a steep, dry watercourse, rimmed by the remnants of a snowfield. I made my way up the watercourse, until I reached the elevation I wanted and exited left. What followed was a brush-bash from hell, in which I had to contour around a hillside, just above a cliff band, to make a 4,400ft meadow, through dense trees and bushes. I think I only touched the ground about half of the time, spending the rest suspended in branches over an unseen floor. Mercifully, it was short and I was out of it in about 30min. (I had been defeated by this very brush the week before, not believing that this was what I had to get through. This time around I was much more determined, which was a tremendous help, psychologically.)
Dawn over Hyas Lake
Start of the climb
The meadow I'd aimed for was quite pretty with snow-melt streams cutting through it. Also, absence of the bushy stuff was most welcome! Unfortunately, I was soon back in the brush as I ascended the next ridge. As I made my way up the ridge, things began to open up and I was gawking at stupendous views of Mount Daniel, towering above a lovely, secluded basin. The basin was almost entirely enclosed by towering cliffs; numerous waterfalls thundered into it, and then gathered themselves to form a roaring creek which cut the Pacific Crest Trail lower down.
Morning light spilling into the meadow
Secluded basin
A steep climb took me to more open terrain and gorgeous meadows. Rushing streams lent music and drama to the area and it was difficult to remember that the main course was still to come. Finally, I crested a saddle and there it lay: Pea Soup Lake, a dream come true.
Pond reflection
Bench over Hyas Lake
Perched above the cliffs
First sight
The lake was just stupendous. The water color changed with the light, all possible shades of blue and green were represented. Mounts Hinman and Daniel were an awesome presence on one side, while Lynch and Diptop Peaks a somewhat lesser one on the other. Ice chunks floated on the lake surface; in fact, I could periodically hear the crashing sounds of more chunks calving off the Lynch Glacier and dropping into the lake. Precious flowers sprouted amidst the rocky terrain, lending yet more color and atmosphere.
Tenuous life
Snow-melt pool
Infinity pool
Pea Soup Lake
Lynch and Diptop Peaks
Rocks and Mt Hinman
I wandered partway up the slopes trying to get as much out of the experience as I could. Eventually, it was time to say goodbye, but my photographs will keep the day forever in my memory.
Cliffs
Clinging on
Colors
A dream attained
Cumulative stats:
- Distance: ~16mi
- Elevation gain: 5,250ft (High point: 6,300ft)
- Hiking time: 12hr 45min
- Trip time: 17.5hrs
Pea Soup Lake
Alpine Lakes Wilderness, Washington (Aug 15, 2008)
I'd waited a long time for this one. Ever since I'd seen the first photos of Pea Soup Lake I just knew I had to see it for myself. Unfortunately, it wasn’t that easy to get there: no trail led to it and most routes involved glacier travel, which I was not ready to tackle solo. So, all winter long I researched alternate routes, pouring over contour maps and satellite imagery, finally coming up with one I was happy with.
Last week I made my first attempt. 3hrs of futile brush-bashing in extremely wet conditions left me dispirited, but I did end up scoping out the correct route. The forecast for this week's attempt was sunny and hot - thank God, I wouldn’t have to deal with wet brush again - so everything was set.
An early start had me hiking from the Deception Pass trailhead by 4:50am. 2hrs later I reached Deception Pass and then headed south on the Pacific Crest Trail. Eventually, I reached the jump-off spot: a steep, dry watercourse, rimmed by the remnants of a snowfield. I made my way up the watercourse, until I reached the elevation I wanted and exited left. What followed was a brush-bash from hell, in which I had to contour around a hillside, just above a cliff band, to make a 4,400ft meadow, through dense trees and bushes. I think I only touched the ground about half of the time, spending the rest suspended in branches over an unseen floor. Mercifully, it was short and I was out of it in about 30min. (I had been defeated by this very brush the week before, not believing that this was what I had to get through. This time around I was much more determined, which was a tremendous help, psychologically.)
Dawn over Hyas Lake
Start of the climb
The meadow I'd aimed for was quite pretty with snow-melt streams cutting through it. Also, absence of the bushy stuff was most welcome! Unfortunately, I was soon back in the brush as I ascended the next ridge. As I made my way up the ridge, things began to open up and I was gawking at stupendous views of Mount Daniel, towering above a lovely, secluded basin. The basin was almost entirely enclosed by towering cliffs; numerous waterfalls thundered into it, and then gathered themselves to form a roaring creek which cut the Pacific Crest Trail lower down.
Morning light spilling into the meadow
Secluded basin
A steep climb took me to more open terrain and gorgeous meadows. Rushing streams lent music and drama to the area and it was difficult to remember that the main course was still to come. Finally, I crested a saddle and there it lay: Pea Soup Lake, a dream come true.
Pond reflection
Bench over Hyas Lake
Perched above the cliffs
First sight
The lake was just stupendous. The water color changed with the light, all possible shades of blue and green were represented. Mounts Hinman and Daniel were an awesome presence on one side, while Lynch and Diptop Peaks a somewhat lesser one on the other. Ice chunks floated on the lake surface; in fact, I could periodically hear the crashing sounds of more chunks calving off the Lynch Glacier and dropping into the lake. Precious flowers sprouted amidst the rocky terrain, lending yet more color and atmosphere.
Tenuous life
Snow-melt pool
Infinity pool
Pea Soup Lake
Lynch and Diptop Peaks
Rocks and Mt Hinman
I wandered partway up the slopes trying to get as much out of the experience as I could. Eventually, it was time to say goodbye, but my photographs will keep the day forever in my memory.
Cliffs
Clinging on
Colors
A dream attained
Cumulative stats:
- Distance: ~16mi
- Elevation gain: 5,250ft (High point: 6,300ft)
- Hiking time: 12hr 45min
- Trip time: 17.5hrs